Hi everyone! I have recently drafted and digitized a side seamless pattern for making knit pants. You can download the free size medium at our website http://www.elfriedesfinefabrics.com or purchase the graded version sizes XS-XL printed on paper for $10 plus shipping.
This blogpost will serve as the color photo instructions for how to put this simple serger project together.
First be sure to pre wash and dry your knit fabric so that your pants will be washable when you are all done.
Next determine your size by measuring around your torso just above your hip bones. This pant pattern is designed to fit at the hip. Look at the pattern to the right of the size chart to see which size you are and to the left to see which corresponding dotted line to cut.
These pants are very stretchy and loose fitting and super “forgiving ” so don’t worry if the pattern isn’t a perfect match. Better too large than too small.
Next cut out your size from the paper pattern with your paper scissors. The photo below shows the first draft of my pattern before I changed the sizes to letters. I’d rather avoid the idea that anyone is extra large or extra small. We are all just the size we are so I renamed them with the letters A through E.
I cut out size C
Next lay your fabric out flat. The fabric I chose was wide enough to cut both leg pieces out of one length of fabric. I bought a yard and and a 3/8ths of 60″ wide fabric. When I shrunk mine I lost an inch of width and 2 inches of length but it was still plenty.
Lay out your fabric so that it is folded in half at the center and there are no wrinkles on top or bottom
If you have strong design motifs like the horizontal line in my fabric, be sure your designs more or less match up.
Here is a peak at the “wrong” sides of my fabric. See how the stripe is laying on top of itself?
Next consider which way to lay your pattern onto the fabric. I had a little extra length so I had some flexibility with pattern placement as well.
I decided to align one of the stripes with the hemline of my pants
See how the blue line on the fabric is sitting just above the solid black line that says “fold here”?
Now cut out your fabric!
You now have two pieces which are your left and right pant legs.
Lay the inseams together of each pant leg right sides together. Be sure to match up the crotch and hem lines and all motifs. Pin as shown. You can use more or less pins according to your comfort level.
Now you are ready for the serger!
Always sew from up to down. Start with the crotch seam and align the raw edge of the inseam with the half inch mark on your serger.
Serge all the way to your hemline. Then repeat for the other side. You can serge both pieces without cutting the threads between them. See above.
Next flip one of the legs so that the fabric is right side out.
Put that leg inside the one that is still “wrong side” out matching your inseam intersection.
Pin as shown below. Best practice is to pin the intersection of your inseams so that the seam allowance goes in opposite directions.
Now serge the crotch seam just like you did the inseams of each pant leg.
It’s okay to go slow.
Flip your pants right side out. And get your elastic. Fit it around your hips so it is stretched but not tight. I cut mine 8″ shorter than the finished waist measurement for my size, so 25 inches.
Serge the raw edges right sides together.
Your elastic will be much smaller than your pants.
Start by matching the center back seams, right sides together.
Next find the halfway point for both the elastic and the pants (center front seam on the pants) and pin.
Repeat until you have at least 8 pins in evenly spaced around the waist of the pants.
Now serge. Start with the center back. This time don’t let the blade of the serger cut either the fabric or the elastic.
Pull the elastic so the excess fabric is taut
Serge all the way around the waist, tying threads at the center back. Good job, give yourself a pat on the back. It’s time to use the coverstitch machine to turn up the hem.
All done! Try them on and share!