I have been selected to show 10 looks at a runway show on September 28th.
It will be thrown by the Thorn organization. Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher’s non profit organization to combat child sex trafficking.
It is just the excuse I needed to get my hands into this raspberry chantilly lace.
I used my skirt sloper to make this pencil skirt with “nude” cotton lawn lining and hidden credit card pocket.
It is light as a feather.
I had to drape the little high low crop top and it was simple enough that I have decided to share my process.
First “draw” your lines onto your dress form. I used a narrow brown ribbon I had in my trim drawer.
There is no need to mark the center front and back because the dress form has a seam.
I call her my room mate. She has been with me since I studied design at Parsons in NYC in 2007. Lordy.
Then you cut a couple of rectangles bigger in all directions than your widest measurements of the front and back.
Fold the center front line for stability and pin it on the dress form.
Smooth it up the neck line and across the shoulder pinning into the form at all seam intersections.
Smooth across the hip clipping at the princess line to release the tension.
Continue smoothing your fabric to the side seam and pinch out the excess into a dart.
You can play with the direction of this dart as long as it points to the apex of the bust.
Mark your intersections with crosses and your curves with small dots. Remove the front draping and proceed to the back.
Now take them both off the dress form and get out your curved rulers and a clear 2×18 and a micron pen or sharp pencil
Use the curved ruler to smooth out your dotted curves and your clear ruler to add seam allowance.
Pinch and pin the dart to draw the side seam.
That’s how you get this notch shape to sew the dart into the side seam.
Repeat for the back and cut away excess fabric.
Now it’s time to check your work.
Pin the dart and the side seams and see if your lines fit together smoothly.
Notice my bottom side seam hem is off by a quarter inch. 🤦♀️
No big deal. Just use your curves ruler to make that jagged line into a graceful curve.
Pin it on the dress form to check your work again.
Now cut the lining and try it on.
I cut the center front on the fold and the center back with a 1″ seam allowance for a zipper.
Fits fine. Now it’s time to cut the lace and underlining.
Treat them as if they are one. Sew the dart and put it on the dress form.
Now time for the lining.
I put the right sides together at the neck and the hemline. Then bound the armholes and applied scalloped edging to the hem.
To apply the scallop use lots of pins, first straight stitch it on then zig zag. You can see it from the back.
But not from the front!
Now it’s time to apply the separating zipper.
And finish the inside of the garment with Hong Kong technique.
Try it on the dress form
Perfect. Add a couple hooks and eyes and you are all done.
I think it will make a nice little prim/ sexy statement on the runway.
I might also wear it out on Friday night in Vegas on my next shopping trip.
Oh la la!